Thanks! Unfortunately not in this room. I will need to do with WiFi.
Bummer. In that case, if I had a Chord Hugo TT, Iâd probably bite the bullet and buy an AURALiC ARIES
Ethernet wonât improve SQ, just connection stability. As long as your wifi is reliable, running a bridge on wifi should be okay.
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Thanks for your suggestion!
To be a bit more precise: I have 2 systems.
My main system runs Roon on a MacMini with a direct USB connection into the Chord Hugo TT. My secondary system also runs Roon on a MacMini however, that feeds my Rpi4 over WiFi.
For the latter I am considering to add an Allo Digital board. Would you think the Auralic Aries would be a better choice?
AURALiC is one of the few endpoint manufacturers that advocates Wi-Fi over wired Ethernet for best sound and best results. They do caution that a good Wi-Fi signal is required and have some recommendations around solutions and setup to ensure this.
Iâve had great results with the Allo DigiOne over Wi-Fi (in the acrylic case). The difference in sound quality between the DigiOne and the ARIES will be small (like so many things in this space) and may come down to personal preference. But, the ARIES is a much nicer component to own and use.
Looking at your two systems, I would suggest putting the AURALiC ARIES in your main system. It should be a significant step in sound quality vs feeding the Hugo TT directly from Core running on the Mac. You can then remove Core from your audio rack and put it next to your router, which will result in less noise and RFI/EMI entering your audio system (if that was ever a concern).
If both systems are in the same home, you should not need two computers running Core.
Without knowing about your speakers, room or listening habits itâs still hard for a frugal person like me to justify the huge gap between the cost of Allo vs. AURALiC.
I am a big fan of the DigiOne Signature, and also suggest that you look at their less expensive 5v Nirvana SMPS if the Shanti is too much. Tried batteries as well, but tired of the swap/charge hassle.
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I use an Ifi power supply, Pi3b Raspberry Digi Hat. and wired ethernet. Qnao473 runs the core.
This feeds Naim Unitiqute2 and Meridian M100 active speakers.
The only thing I would change is to a Allo Digi Hat.
The sound quality is AMAZING
I have not tried a cheaper power supply
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I just donât get why anyone should by a HAT, if you already have an external / high-end DAC which should do the Digital-Analog conversion. The whole idea of connecting a cheap Rasp.Pi to te DAC via USB is to just use the Pi as a âbridgeâ to your external DAC.
Also, thereâs supposed to be error correction and what-not going on between the Pi and the DAC. Itâs a digital data stream. If your data stream gets interrupted (because of bad Wi-Fi for instance or a crappy USB stack), then youâd get interruptions in your music and maybe your DAC will go hay-wire and youâd start hearing hisses, clicks and/or static. But youâd hear that immediately⌠it has nothing to do with âsound qualityâ in terms of lows and highs and soundstage or whatever lingo you use for SQ. 
Only if youâre using the analog output of the HAT, feeding it into an analog amplifier⌠THEN youâd have to worry about the power supply of the Pi. In all other cases, be worried about the power supply of the DAC which might have âsomeâ influence, be it extremely little. ;).
Itâs the analog path that is influenced by the type of power supply⌠not the digital path⌠at least not in terms of âSound Qualityâ as is meant in this thread.
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No. Look at the specification of the USB Type-C connector used for power. It is rated for a maximum current of 3 amps. Currents greater than 3 amps can be transmitted via Type-C in Power Delivery mode only, which is not used by the RPi.
Thus, there is no question of consuming more than 3 amps.
Disabling Wi-Fi eliminates a powerful source of high-frequency interference located very close to the digital audio path. This significantly improves sound quality.
This isnât strictly true. The 3 amp recommendation includes a significant allowance for HATs and USB connected peripherals. A Pi4 running as a music endpoint into a self-powered USB DAC wonât be drawing much more than half an amp. This can go up to around 1 amp at boot time so a 2 amp supply will easily power the Pi and allow for most HATs and/or DACs.
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Is it worth getting a Allo Shanti for RPI4 alone?
Donât want half-meaures like the Ifi ones as the ifi is exactly 1/2 of the Shanti in terms of price for me so long term I am not really making a saving.
Also is the Shanti worth it over using an external battery?
⌠it seems Allo is not on the market (alive) anymore ⌠even if you were able to buy one there are no guarantees about support
I use this because I have it: https://www.gieseler.com.au/product-page/kraftwerk-ii-dual
I can recommend this hat for 2 channel stereo: PI2AES - PRO AUDIO SHIELD - Pi2 Design
If you want ultimate quality from your Pi, look here: https://iancanada.ca/
This would eliminate much of the concern related to PS selection.
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@grizaudio
Thanks, but really not an answer to any of my questions.
No need to promote these products to me as I am not interested.
I have a Shanti. Iâve never noticed a difference when using it versus a wall wart. Same with using the Shanti to power three different DACs.
How does it improve sound quality? Surely, if youâre talking about the âdigitalâ audio path, itâs just data at this point? Are you suggesting that the wifi connection can cause packet loss or corrupt the data in some way?
Thatâs funny because for everyone who says the above youâll find ten people who prefer WiFi because it provides galvanic isolation.
Iâm not promoting just sharing some PS ideas. ?!
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