No. Reading the above link, I’d turn this on on the MacBook attached to the receiver? Oh, no, you said on the iMac with the Core. No, not there either, but it is my main computer and runs other applications 24/7 that I need to have running.
[EDIT]@andybob I ran out of posts allowed, so I couldn’t reply to your question. Hoping you see this.
I’ve got it! Using the above linked Apple Support page, I set the optical output on the MacBook Pro (that is connected directly to the Yamaha receiver via Toslink) to 24/192, and then I set the Audio Setting in Roon’s device setup on the MacBook Pro to enable Exclusive Mode. Now I have full resolution data coming out of the MacBook Pro into the receiver’s 24/96 decoder using PCM.
As I understand, that will give me the best I’m going to get (or at least the best I’ll be able to hear with these ears) with the existing hardware, and not much worse than buying a DAC. Now I just need to finish running the Ethernet and nothing will be relying on wifi.
Thank you all for your help and patience!! I’ll be subscribing to both Qobuz and Roon when my free trial runs out!
Steve
Oh! Maybe not! It looks like I can adjust the output after all. I found the following link while looking for HDMI output specs. I’ll give those a try after eating a late supper.
Hello Steve and welcome to wonderful world of Roon and the forum. Looks like you’ve made good progress in a short amount of time.
Sounds like we’re in similar situations. I’m 67 and totally deaf in the right ear. Found Roon in June of last year and have been happily enjoying the music since then.
Started out with Roon on my Desktop PC, all wireless, then decided to go for the NUC/Rock dedicated music server for my library with Tidal/Qobuz integrated. Wireless worked well most of the time, but wired is the way to go if you have the opportunity.
Have the NUC in the AV closet with hdmi output connected to the surround system for multi-channel recorded music, USB and Ethernet connections to a Roon Ready OPPO player, wired connection to a Roon Ready Elac Z3 speaker system in the Kitchen and a wired connection to my PC with an Audioquest Dragonfly Dac in the bedroom.
It’s good to have the music playing throughout the house or only in whichever room I happen to be using at the time.
I ran out of allowed posts, so had to wait to reply.
I’ve got it! Using the above linked Apple Support page, I set the optical output on the MacBook Pro (that is connected directly to the Yamaha receiver via Toslink) to 24/192, and then I set the Audio Setting in Roon’s device setup on the MacBook Pro to enable Exclusive Mode. Now I have full resolution data coming out of the MacBook Pro into the receiver’s 24/96 decoder using PCM.
As I understand, that will give me the best I’m going to get (or at least the best I’ll be able to hear with these ears) with the existing hardware, and not much worse than buying a DAC. Now I just need to finish running the Ethernet and nothing will be relying on wifi.
Thank you all for your help and patience!! I’ll be subscribing to both Qobuz and Roon when my free trial runs out!
Steve
I know you want to stick with your current hardware, but you really are limited by the DACs in your Mac and receiver. For USD199 you could add a Audioquest Dragonfly Red to the signal path at your Mac and it will transform the sound. Night and day. And handle up to 24/192.
Even trained listeners able to discern a much wider frequency range find it difficult to discriminate between standard CD 44.1khz 16 bit audio from high resolution formats, when tested blind in properly controlled conditions.
Given you have identified that the frequency range of your hearing is fairly limited, I would suggest that you do not need to worry about high resolution audio at all. In all likelihood you would have difficulty (as most people do) discriminating between 320kpbs mp3 and CD quality audio. Based on Nyquist, you could downsample all of your audio to 18khz sample rate and you wouldn’t be able to hear a difference. That’s your 8khz hearing limit x 2 plus 2khz for an anti-aliasing filter slope.
Therefore, I’d relax and enjoy the setup you have worked out.
If you want a bit more flexibility, get a raspberry pi 4 and a cheap USB dac like a Topping D30. Then you can physically separate the roon core from the playback.
Thanks for the reply. Yep, I realize that I’m limiting myself with my older equipment. I think I’m bypassing the laptop’s inbuilt DAC by using optical out. Not positive, though. And the Yamaha’s receiver looks by the specs that it can handle 24/96. I think. Like I said, this is all new to me. And, as @Nathan_Scrivener says above, I’m likely not missing anything! I considered sticking a Schitt Modi3 between the optical out on the MacBook and the RCA in on the Yamaha just to see if I can hear a difference. It would be a cheap test for $119 and free return on Amazon.
Thank you. I emboldened the key point in your reply, and agree completely. Maybe a test with a cheap DAC as mentioned above just to see if I can hear any difference. Frankly, I was quite shocked when I did the audio test! I seriously thought it wasn’t doing anything until Deb said she heard it. The last time I tried my old '90s test CD, albeit several years ago, I was hearing around 14kHz if I recall correctly.
One of these days, I’m going to replace my 15 year old 50 inch 720 Plasma TV with an OLED 65 or 77 inch model. At that time, I’ll replace my receiver and reconsider a better source solution. Until then, the Roon Core on my iMac and using the optical out on the laptop seems to work noticeable better than Spotify on the Apple TV (non-4K version), so I’ll stick with that for a while.
A huge thank you to everyone who offered input, suggestions, and encouragement. From what I’ve read, this is a very civil forum. I’ll be sticking around.
An even better test would be the Modi 3 multibit. Not only would you get to test the multibit filter, you can also see what NOS sounds like (if you pass it higher than 24/96, like 24/192).
Just my 2 cents, but listen to what you have now. If you’re still not satisfied, then you can jump down the rabbit hole. Lots of options from dedicated streamers, stand alone DACs, networked endpoints, upgraded audio gear (amps, speakers, etc.). Even room treatments and DSP. I have three different DACs (4 if you count internal) and I can’t tell the difference between them. Biggest improvement in sonics was new speakers. Listen to what you have now and then decide how far you want to go.
One other thing. Most home theater receivers have a two channel only option. I use a Pioneer HTR in my office system and it sounds terrible when set for movie play back. If I set it to the dedicated Analog Direct Mode, it sounds wonderful for music. I believe the Yamaha has a Pure Direct Mode which is supposed to be for stereo audio only. Try that mode and see if you like it.
Would recommend upgrading to a new(er) Yamaha Aventage series receiver for better sound, I have an RX-A860 and the sound is very good in stereo mode, also have a 7.1 Atmos setup but music typically sounds best in stereo in my opinion. I tried QoBuzz and was unimpressed, to me Tidal is much better, especially the upper tier subscription, would take the suggestion above to use an Audioquest Dragonfly for your dac as it will decode MQA which is the best sounding format available.
Of course, you don’t have to spend $200 to get a taste. Monoprice is having a sale right know on their Dragonfly knockoff - Monolith by Monoprice USB DAC
Tom, I plan to upgrade the receiver when I replace the plasma TV (see post 31 above.) Until then, I’m going to use what I currently have.
David, yes, enjoying what I’ve got now that I’m using Roon and Qobuz through the MacBook as the source instead of Spotify through the Apple TV HD is the plan.
And yes, I’m using Pure Direct. I’d tried the processed surround theater or concert hall modes back when I first got the receiver, and disliked them. Just two speakers works for me!
