I had a Fritzbox when I lived in Austria. Worked well, easy user interface. Could teach some UK ISPs a thing or two about equipment performance and usability.
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Here you can usually only get the FRITZ!Box from your Internet provider for an extra charge. Otherwise, there is the usual scrap.
Edit: And I wish there was an option to fine tune FW rules. Mesh became quite good. Home automation is nice.
Edit2: And an option to use rechargeable batteries with the thermostat. Suggested this to AVM, never got an answer.
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With some options missing, at least here from Vodafone Germany. Better than the Vodafone crap router, but after my experiences Iād always by my own Fritzbox now
ok, I ran into some ānoiseā I didnāt see talked about yet.
Once in a while I set-up my UMK-1 and REW and I tinker. Before running sweeps and test tones I take a reading of the room with all the audio bits turned on (including tubes). Today it was above 40dB. My room is usually under 40dB. This was verified with a simple phone app. The ability to discern ānoise floorā is directly related to how quiet your room is. Now I need to figure out why the ambient noise level in my room has increased since last time I tested (months ago).
Great idea, never thought of to do a measure only go the room. I guess it would be somehow unpredictable as I live next to a somehow heavy traffic street but Iāll do it. Do you integrate those readings in the construction of the filters that are for your speakers?
I donāt use any digital filters though. I use REW to adjust placement, toe, sub integration, etc. When I finally stop moving this around and adding room treatment Iāll move to room correction dsp.
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Thanks for your answer.
For sub integration, do measure only the speakers then you play with the settings on your sub and watch REW to see the better settings?
oh this could go deep conversationā¦
Iāll try to summarize. At the end of the day you want the subs to fill in frequencies where the mains canāt but not add to frequencies already excited by the room. And, time alignment may be important as well.
I start with both stereo and individual sweeps L / R subs off and I go up to 600 or 800 Hz since crossovers are leaky and Iām feeding full signal into the subs. This lets me know exactly what each speaker is doing and if there is any combing. I then work one channel at a time (I run stereo subs) finding a curve Iām happy with and getting them to overlap as well as the room will allow. Then I go back to stereo and make final adjustment.
The work I did today was to take my subs from āclub loudā to much better in balance to both the room and the mains. Not as much āfunā but significantly more articulate and accurate now. Althoughā¦ I do miss the back massage as they were loud enough to shake the couch 
Maybe Iāll end-up turning them up a little in a few days.
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We had the house apart anyway because we lifted it, (flood zone). I put in 4 dedicated 20amp lines for the A/V system and Iām very pleased with the results. The front end has itās own, the video part has itās own, and each power amp has one. It seems to me the noise floor lowered and the system got more dynamic, (subjective, I know).
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My 2 cents (with some measurements): I donāt worry about electric noise from the computer at all after adding and iFi galvanic isolator in the USB chain before my DAC. Fan noise is real, so I went with a fanless case. I have dedicated 20 amp runs for my rack, but they are surprisingly noisy (measured with a greenwave) so I use power conditioners that get it down to good levels.
Now whether or or any of this is really audible is a crapshoot. I do think my amp sounds a bit better when plugged into the conditioners, but I havenāt done any formal double blind AB tests.
I generally try to use good quality cables (mostly audio quest) and run interconnects isolated from power. But I havenāt gone overboard.
For EF noise the greenwave provided good peace of mind.
For a minimal investment I have definitely reached a point where I no longer care about fixing noise any further, which lets me move on to enjoying the music rather than fretting.
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Iāve not been asked, but would like to chime in here.
Taking ambient noise readings before doing speaker/room measurements always is good practice, as you want to maximize the signal to noise ratio to at least 20dB.
That might especially be problematic in the low frequency range, since itās good practice also, to take measurements at levels which correspond to your preferred music listening.
As you want to correct for the speaker/room interaction only, one definitively should not use measurements, where āunpredictable heavy trafficā noise interferes.
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You are always welcome. Thanks for you points. I try to take the measurements around 4 am were there is no traffic, and when it happens it is just wonderful to start over 
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Yep, familiar story, itās a great excuse for a late-night session as well
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Bolder approach needed. Donāt just measure when it quiet. Move to where itās quiet. Real audiophiles live in the countryside 
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The number of times Iāve got REW set-up, done all my level tests, plan out where I want to focus on adjustments, sit behind the machineā¦ set-up the measurement andā¦ My neighbor decides thatās the very best time to mow their lawn is too many!
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Thatās one problem that goes away at 2 AM 
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Run the Dirac sweeps at 2am 
Youāre gonna have us all sleeping on the patio chaise with the doors locked.
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A really nice tool to reduce noise is the Network Acoustics Muon streaming system. They got a 30 day money back guarantee so easy to testdrive.
@Markus_Hubner - It says āThe Muon network filter is designed to sit between a streamer (or server) and a network switch and has a short length of ethernet cable fixed to the output, the input is a high quality Neutrik RJ45 socket to which you connect the (preferably) 1.5m Muon ethernet cable.ā
So if you have a NUC/ROCK and a switch the unit is between? What does it do for over 2.000 EURO (incl. VAT and import duty from the UK)?
Torben