Like many others I had lots of issues with Apple Extreme based wi-fi (mixed construction house with some RSJs and some old iron brick), I moved to four Google WiFi units and it’s rock solid ever since. I would have gone with Eero had it been supported in the UK at the time.
Mesh wifi works well for me. Eero us what I have. Dont believe it’s available in the UK, but something similar should be.
Just wanted to chime in on the Eeros. I’m pretty much thrilled with mine, when contrasted with years of buying expensive routers, bridges, and access points, all in the effort to establish reliable wifi connectivity across a hard-to-penetrate, largish, multistory home… and failing. Three Eero Pro’s made all my problems of the past go away. They just work. However, they are not perfect. Or mine aren’t anyway.
First, there have been a couple of occasions when one needed to be power cycled. Second, one failed pretty early on, and needed to be replaced. Third, they are not as fast as a lot of the competition. Mine top out at about 170 Mbps, though that is more than sufficient for me. Fourth, their “plug 'em in and forget 'em” setup is a two edged sword. Sure, they are simple. But if you need to to do anything remotely sophisticated on your network - even if you buy their Eero Plus service - like routing, DMZ, QOS, port forwarding, etc. - you can forget about it. Only the simplest network configurability is available. And fifth, Eero retains direct access to your routers, thus your data too. They can see it all. So if you have something to hide on your network - or in your network traffic - this is not the solution for you.
But if you don’t, and can get them in your country, and can afford them, and can live with a simple network, the Eero Pros are pretty d*mn good.
Good to know that Eero does have its little imperfections. When I first read about Eero, I was desperately trying to get a Pro system, till I realized that they are not certified for Europe. I therefore went with the Netgear Orbi system. I don‘t know if they are true mesh network, but they are great, and like your situation, is difficult to entirely cover through thick walls and several floors. I am pretty happy with Netgear Orbi, but their app isn‘t very good.
Despite the vast improvement, there are occasional drop outs in Roon when streaming Tidal. Interestingly though, no drop outs whatsoever with my Aurender N100H. That‘s why I decided to have the house hard wired with Ethernet. The electrician is building it right now and things should be finished by next week.
Too bad you could not get the Eero Pros. For all their minor downsides, there are no drop outs. Never. Ever. Nor dead spots. None. And zero issues with handoffs as you move from one router to the other… a true mesh, that works perfectly.
It’s why I love them.
I would’ve preferred the Eeros, they look so sleek, I guess also much smaller. Alas, I have our house Ethernet wired in the next few days, so this will alleviate the occasional drop outs. I must say, though, that I ran the Roon Core server also wirelessly, so this could’ve caused the problems.
That is definitely not recommended. However, sometimes we have no choice, as was the case for me while I was renovating my house. And I had no end to Roon problems, even with very expensive, thoughtfully configured, wifi gear. But all that ended with the Eero Pros.
Good luck wiring the house! It’s the way to go, if you can.
Thanks! The electrician interrupted wiring for the weekend and there are all sorts of cables lying around. It’s a mess
I now connected my Mac Book Pro temporarily via Ethernet to my router, until hardwiring in my house is completed. For the remote control via my iPad, I need to have WiFi turned on. Now, how am I sure that Ethernet has preference over WiFi? In the network preferences, I dragged Ethernet to the top of the list in the ‚Set Service Order‘ window. Still, will Ethernet remain to have preference over WiFi? Thanks for clarifying this issue!
Your iPad should be connected to the WIFI of your network, not the WIFI on your Mac. So you should be able to turn WIFI on your mac off. Unless I’m missing something and you have some sort of setup where your iPad connects directly to your MBP.
System Preferences > Network will show you in green on the left what you’re connecting over if you want to check.
I’ve recently installed an 8 port Ubiquiti router with 4 POE ports and two Long Range Access Points on both sides of the house. It works 100% but the router gets quite hot. It’s in a closed but large cupboard (I had dibs on the top shelf of the pantry) I’m considering cutting the top out of the pantry but that’s not ideal. Has anyone got an 8 port 60Watt router in the open? Does it get hot?
They get hot regardless of their location. I’ve got USG-3P and US-8-60W in a small cupboard. Another US-8-60W and nanoHD outside. Temperature is about the same. That said, they haven’t failed on me yet.
Both the 8port 60w switch and usb router do run warm. Mine also in a somewhat enclosed cabinet with a 2 bay nas and ups as well. The 8port 150w switch runs even hotter if it’s any consolation. Mine run 24x7 and have been like this for over a year. A small fan might help circulate or try with the door a little open.
Thanks Bart / Mr Fix it,
I will keep it as is for now. I’m planning to add a Rock server of some kind in the future on the same shelf. If that turns out to be too much, I’ll have to get the saw out.
If using a NUC and ROCK then I suggest you keep an eye on the NUC as if you are running a large import / analysis of tracks things can warm up on the NUC or if you do significant DSP related functions like upsampling to DSD512 or convolution etc.
Speaking of Ubiquiti, anyone noticed any issues since the new access point firmware (3.9.54)? Bit of a long shot but, other than Roon itself, I’m not sure what else has changed in my setup and I’m getting infrequent (?weekly) but irritating dropouts on a previously entirely stable RPi endpoint connected wirelessly to an AC Pro. I’ll do all the normal debugging at some point but just curious if anyone else has come across it?
Is it possible to downgrade the firmware?
That’s a good idea, thanks…I think so when done directly via ssh…I’ll look into it.
I checked and my firmware is the same. Long Range Access Points and no problems whatsoever.
Thanks for checking!