Ethernet to Fiber media converters


(Sean) #151

Hans, I agree, I enjoy hearig other people’s subjective opinions too. I was just answering your question about Paul… “Is he wrong ?”…,

His personal preference can not be wrong (just like mine and yours - our subjective preference is always right) but if he disagreeing with the designer on a technical level (I haven’t seen it by the way) then… this is the point I was making in answering your question.


(Magnus) #152

I will try and fix the linear power to the media converter myself (more fun). Here is a picture with the passive power regulator circled.

Unless I am mistaken, all you need is to cut the “vires” at the right part of the circle, and put your own power in there. Now, I assume it will need steady power so connecting batteries directly will probably not work, so I ordered one of these to do the job (3.3V version): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253916560223

A fun and cheap little tweak, and if I break the media converter, its not like a new one is very expensive :slight_smile:


(Daniel Beyer) #153

I have used TOSlink and 24/192 files for years and never had a problem.


(Sean) #154

You are brave. Which model number FMC do you have again?


(Magnus) #155

TP-Link MC100CM, about 40$ here in Sweden
Btw, according to some guy on a Swedish forum, its not a switched voltage regulator in it, but a passive one.


(Sean) #156

Ok, different model to mine. There’s no other regulators , just one?


(Magnus) #157

Dunno, I am not good at electronics (got some help from others in this case). Will probably end up breaking it and buying a new one :slight_smile:

But at the very least it will bypass the first regulator, and make anything above 3.5V suitable for a power supply.


(Mr Fix It ) #158

Just remember that when you drop voltage you get heat…so the higher the voltage in to drop the more stress you put on the regulator


(Magnus) #159

Yes, think I will run it with 3 1.2 AA batteries, those should be over 4V charged and slowly go down to 3.6 and then its time to recharge. Of maybe use one 18650 3.6V batteriey.

Btw, if more volt produce heat, that would mean that for example 8 * 1.2 in series would not last as long as 3 * 1.2 in series.


(Mr Fix It ) #160

Well its also dependant on the current being drawn


(Sean) #161

This is why I got SOtM to mod mine (a few regulators replaced and caps).

They actually measured current drawn across the existing components and then selected appropriate component upgrades. They know this stuff inside out, having made networked streamers for a long while now.

But the actual optical to copper conversion section - they didn’t touch. Understandably.

I applaud your courage though @Magnus ! I didn’t have the patience to attempt what you are attempting.


(Magnus) #162

I am sure SOtM can do this much better than I can, I just like to “get my hands dirty” from time to time. I might still end up using SOtM, either because I can’t get it to work or just to compare.


(Sean) #163

Some interesting fiber optic news from Sonore:


#164

More dark matter, brother?

Actually, something like this was a long time coming. Problem is Sonore makes it, probably at 3 times what one should cost. One could accomplish the same thing by using off the shelf converters and upgrading the power supply, no?

In the case of fiber optic, bits truly are bits.


(Magnus) #165

For data in, then yes, but you need to make the converter itself electronically quiet as well, and from what I read optical converters are tricky to get quiet.

But you get part of the way with a pair of cheap media converter and a battery power on last one, I am using that myself.


(Sean) #166

Hey Slim, there is some discussion above about the conversion from optical to copper ethernet possibly (I don’t know) being a noisy process. I won’t go into it again but might be a factor? And maybe something Sonore is tackling? Who knows - limited info so far.


(Rene Bouwmeester) split this topic #167

16 posts were merged into an existing topic: Sonore opticalRendu


(Magnus) #185

Todays little tweak, I think there is an improvement to clarity but can’t be 100% sure (placebo and lack of proper A/B). Anyway, it works and it should have gotten rid of some switching electronic noise.

Before:

After:

The extra board is a very low-noise 3.3V voltage regulator from http://www.ldovr.com/ for around $20, I also went Rambo on some old stuff that should not be needed (and wasn’t or it would hardly work) :slight_smile:


(Sean) #186

(Peter Lie) #187

FYI. A dealer and a user has nice things to say about it:
https://www.audioshark.org/showthread.php?t=15781&p=260181&viewfull=1#post260181