How to throttle Sound Quality to Sonos speakers, and not to other Roon endpoints

Wow, thanks for all the helpfull replies! I will defenitely try that setting (24bit > 16bit) when back at home. All my speakers are wired, but I hear that one should be enough. I have a very large networksetup (5 smart switches involved) and was finally advised by Sonos to wire one speaker directly to the router and unplug the others. That would mean hiring somebody to do that, so I hope this would help.


Sometimes wiring more than one Sonos device can create problems of its own, so best to just hardwire one and go from there.

1 Like

This exactly what I have done after a lot of pain, with just the Boost plugged in to Ethernet.
Currently all is good :+1:


I have a small home office with a pair of stand mounted Sonos 1s paired with a Sonos Sub. I’ve recently been comparing that setup against a pair of LSX IIs. I very much agree with your description of the LSX IIs as being better at near field. The KEFs far exceed the 1s but when you throw the Sub into the mix, the Sonos setup pulls ahead with respect to bigger, broader sound - exactly what you’d expect from the addition of a sub.

The LS 50 IIs are a different matter but they’re overpowered for my office and have the opposite issue. I do have a pair stand-mounted in our main bedroom and they’re wonderful there (as well as being responsive and reliable).


Yes it is a difficult challenge moving up, with so many options.
I have two sets of stereo pairs of Sonos and the stereo 3s don’t need a sub but the 1s definitely benefit from one. I was also looking at Genelec for near field fed by a Roon Ready Mini I pro 3, but there seem to be so many good choices available.
I am hopefully moving into a bigger room next year so I will wait a bit and think more about it then.

Since I wrote that last post a fortnight[1] ago, I flipped back to the LSX IIs. They’ve grown on me as desktop speakers for both near-field music and computer output over USB-C. There really are, as you say, “so many options.” - It’s a fun time to love music.

[1] - Two weeks, for those of you on my side of the pond. Never ceases to amaze me that we say “bi-monthly” to mean both “every two weeks” and “every other month”. “Fortnight” and “Fortnightly” are unfortunate absences from our vernacular

1 Like

Thanks for that update.
I watched the Darko review yesterday and it lined up as I expected. I need to decide If I want something like the LSX II on a large desk or something bigger further away.
Tough decisions :thinking:

I was thinking of LSX IIs for the spare bedroom as the main hi-fi is in the lounge and can only be used when the wife is not watching TV.

I was thinking of a little den setup for when i don’t want to use headphones.
I’ve put in a pair of Sonos Play Ones in to test the room, this has me thinking if I should just stick with the Sonos and maybe add a sub.
The other advantage is I can use them with LMS without a need for a streamer or Pi.


I watched it as well and I agree completely that he got it right. The economics of the LSX IIs + KC62 + stands are questionable. I have them on desk pads and no sub, which is perfect for my environment.

I also have a couple pairs of LS50IIs. They’re, of course, with a look as well.

I initially bought the LSXs to replace a pair of Sonos Ones + Sub in our bedroom. I found them insufficient for the room. The room is on the largish size, I think, so that may not be your finding in your spare, but it’s a consideration. The Darko review @Michael_Harris mentioned discusses room size - it’s worth a watch if you’re in the market.

The LS50 IIs (with no sub, but that’s to preference) were quite sufficient for the room.


I’m not personally sure the KC62 is a good value proposition (with the LSX II), especially if you already have a Sub (I have a compact REL T5) and speakers about the size (maybe slightly bigger than LSX II)

Otherwise the LS50 W2 with its improved bass might be a good option (but on stand’s rather than a desk)

Then this appears in my feed :flushed:


In the US, the LS50 IIs are currently on discount for $2299 (from $2799). They appear discounted in the UK, too. Here, the discount runs through the end of the year.

Yes the LS50 W2 is back to its original price in the UK
Just tried to log into my Richer Sounds account but Locked my IP out.
My guess is they will be back on sale over Christmas again, so no need to rush now. I need to try them both out and see if I like the sound

Apparently I’m still allowed to shop there.

1 Like

Jumping in late here ref Sonos issues.

I’m curious as to whether those having issues are streaming Roon to their wireless Sonos devices primarily, and not their chosen wired device. I know for a stereo pair you only need to wire one of the speakers and it’ll use SonosNet. But if you are using Roon, I’d recommend wiring one speaker in each zone (Zone in Sonos to mirror Roon).

I only mention the above as I am lucky and thankful I haven’t got issues with my Sonos setup. I have tinkered and broken my setup on purpose to help others find resolution. The above works for me. I hope it could help for you.

I stream from Roon at 24bits.

1 Like

It seems to be a discovery issue from a Roon perspective (or a loss of discovery).
It also affects people who only have Ethernet and it is a strange one, I’m hoping Roon can build on the update that fixed mine (though another Sonos rebuild did get me there first).

Got to say that I have made it three or 4 updates through Roon and Sonos is still working without issue.

As per conversation with @gTunes I was getting ready to sell mine, but with everything working so well I find it hard to get rid of them as the Sonos works so well.


The convenience factor is high with Sonos, which makes it frustrating when there are Roon - Sonos integration problems.

1 Like

I tried most solutions here:

  • changing bitrate to 16bit
  • Wiring speakers (all, one, one per room)
  • Starting one zone in Roon and do the grouping in the Sonos-app.
    And never get a true stable system.

I now have bought a Sonos Boost and am waiting for the instructions how to best install him from Sonos Support.

I have one big space with an office (stereopair), sitting area (stereopair), eating area (one speaker) and kitchen (one speaker) and am still not able to use them alltogether without issues.
The issue when they all had a wired connection (should alway work, no?) was that there are multiple managed switches involved (sonos support).

Thomas I can not guarantee this will work for you, but I plugged my Boost into the same switch as my Roon Core (which is plugged into my main router). All other Sonos are running on WiFi now and that seems to be optimal for me at least. I had the Boost being the only device on the network for a time and then slowly added the Sonos one by one.

Make sure where possible the devices show up as WM0 which means they are connected through SonosNet on the Boost (my Move and Roam always connect to WM: 1 but that has also been stable).

Good luck

1 Like

So wiring more than one unit will not work unless you go to the trouble of enabling RSTP and seeing the correct switch weights in each of your managed switches, else you will get so-called loops.

If you don’t go that route, having just one Sonos device wired is the best path, and your experience may vary based on whether you should enable Sonos to use your Wi-Fi network or disable it and force Sonos to only use its proprietary SonosNet network. I leave it disabled, it works better for me.

The boost won’t really make a difference unless you have either long distances between units, lots of interference, or both.

I have gone to the trouble of enabling RSTP and setting weights and putting most Sonos units on ethernet in the past, but when I forgot and bought a new mini switch and added it without seeing its weight, my entire network went down. Occasional Sonos instability was not worth network fragility - to me.

1 Like