I use this purchased from UK originally for my Squeeze Touch. Very clean 5V linear supply
Archimago’s measurements of the RPi suggest its probably not worth going down the psu rabbit hole too far…
I use CRAAP settings and they make my Berry’s sound Great!
FYI as long as you power the RPI via the miniUSB there won’t be much difference in sound. This is because you are still using the RPI’s internal “Switching Regulator”.
Powering the Digi+ Pro board directly at the 3.3V only powers the Coax.
If you want clean power the best ‘and only’ way is to use the GPIO to power the RPI, this way the RPI and everything down stream has regulated power without the switching involved.
I know – I have one powered directly at the Digi+ Pro board. Just saying the earth did not move.
I agree.
The further you go up in quality the law of diminishing returns comes into play.
Would you say that powering the RPI via the GPIO is not worth the effort? Looking back would you recommend just sticking with a factory switching wallwart?
Note that I can only judge on my system (Digi+ Pro > BlueJeans > MiniDSP / Dirac > Bluejeans > Meridian DSP speakers). For me, there’s not discernible difference between powering the Digi+ directly and powering the Pi.
If I ever switch Digiboards (Allo is supposed to come out with a nice one next month), I know that I will not worry about powering directly to the board. As far as Pi PSUs go – there’s an awful lot of cheap rubbish in the market (I used an IQAudio PiDAC+ as headphone setup for a while – it was not hard to pick out the bad ones with D/A and Amp on the board).
I like the Aqvox: it is quiet and stable (and it offers great piece of mind) – but if I’m totally honest, I doubt that I could reliably detect a preference over a decent quality regular switching PSU.
But as always: your mileage may vary.
Hi Rene great points indeed. Have there been any teasers about Allo’s new Digi board on the web?
I can’t hear the difference with my USD$900 PS Bridge II board which itself is amazing.
However I think power supply quality to the DAC board, rather than Digi, is a bigger factor. How much bigger? My ears will find out shortly , for my particular system. Of course I don’t want to and can’t generalise.
But like was mentioned above by a Dac+ user, his improvement was noticeable but also not earth shattering. A nice improvement for the cost of a PCB header and DC socket and a 2nd iFi IPower but might good value still though, no? I can’t wait to find out
Hi guys, just got my Dac+ PRO.
I noticed it comes with a header already soldered? See attached photo.
So it looks like I just need to de-solder the R14 resistor?
Also, what do I need to connect to that existing header? I want to end up using an iFi 5V iPower with 2.1mm DC plug.
Appreciate any advice
This will do it right? https://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/952-JST-RCY-Plug-with-10cm-Leads-Female
Just plug in? And have a 2.1mm DC socket on the other end?
Hi Sean, the layout of that board looks much different to my Dac+ Pro. Also I’ve not seen one before with a header already attached. I wonder if this is a new version? Also, if you are powering both boards with the one supply, what is the purpose of desoldering the resister?
Hi Rob, I think you’re right, I might have a newer version but it might not be anything different other than the board and layout itself. Same components otherwise.
Just re-read Daniel’s email: “De-soldering of R14 is only required if you want to power the DAC independent from the Raspberry Pi”
You’re right, not required ! 
Cheers, Sean
Great, perhaps ask him about the new board too (I wonder if they have resolved the conflict between the clocks and on board wifi).
Ok, that’s a relief!
Hi Rob, what was the issue? Was the clocking disrupting the Pi’s WiFi?
See here…
https://www.hifiberry.com/blog/wlan-driver-bug-in-raspberry-pi-kernel/
I’ve had no luck with mine on wifi but in any event for my main system, where the Pi resides, I prefer wired connection
Same, I’m using Blue Jeans Cat 6a ethernet, with it’s floating shield design. Using their RCA cables too. Well constructed and fair prices.
Are you powering the Dac board directly too? If so, can I ask which power supply?
Yes and iFi (as per response on 11 Feb) 
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So my parts arrived (JCT female connector and 2.1mm female DC socket).
I got this one, which has compatibility with 0.1" or 2.54mm pitch: https://www.pololu.com/product/1164/
Since my board conveniently had the 2 pin header already installed and I’m hopeless with fine soldering, it was literally plug and play. The hardest part was finding an exit for the 5V power cable, without any drilling.
See attached photo. Makes a nice improvement, with the iFi 5V.
I have to agree with earlier comments, it’s not an earth shaking improvement but definitely worth it for the $5 cable and female 2.1mm DC socket, when used a good and affordable power supply like the iFi iPower 5V.
Very happy and really appreciate the help and advice in this thread. I’m sure it will help others!
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Has anyone tried an affordable and safe battery pack to power the Dac+ PRO board directly?
Something like this which outputs 2.4A : http://uk.tp-link.com/products/details/TL-PB20100.html
Could be interesting.