I’d gone cold turkey on the audio infatuation but a spurious update and the clients not connecting first time dragged me back in again.
At the moment I’m doing more of this…
Than I am of this…
Than I am of this…
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Well I will 
to the 
Gods to your return back into the listening fold at the earliest opportunity
And good luck 
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Once I’ve fixed this pump I’ve got to disconnect and ship the other one off for repair. Both pumps failed on the same day!!!
There may have been 
@#£@% words used.
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A Stuart Turner pump by chance?
Actually, I know it is. A Monsoon twin shower pump.
Yep, with a knackered pressure switch assembly apparently.
Now in bits whilst I triple check I’ve put all the new washers in, cos there’s one left in the rebuild kit…hmmmm
Don’t forget to check the little vessels pre-charge before reinstating it.
And maybe clean out both strainers.
Also don’t forget to firmly attached the reed switches.
Thank you for contacting Roon Plumbing Support
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It’s a new pressure vessel as that’s what went wrong last time…
I will check the strainers, good idea.
New ties on the reed switches.
New screws, new washers.
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Hi chaps, an interesting discussion that deserves it’s own topic …
I’ve got a Honeywell 3-way valve to replace, it’s a bit of pain to get at, but it’s 30 years old so can’t complain.
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Just remember the A and B ports
A for ass
B for bath
22mm or 28mm?
The quality of Honeywell vs cost isn’t what it once was.
I’d recommend Drayton at the moment.
Although a cheaper make, named Banico is a like for like replacement to Honeywell, they are very cheap and I’ve replaced more of those in the last 5 years than I have Honeywell in 30 years.
If you are also doing this your self, it’s quite likely the existing nuts will have a slightly different thread pattern and will require the olives removing. A spanner under the nut and some good hard knocks with a hammer and they tend to come off.
Try not to use pump pliers on the olives. Can lead to squashed pipes and cause leaks even with paste.
Don’t forget to apply paste.
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Replaced the part as specified by technical support.
Pump on permanently as before. Grrrrrr.
40 minutes waiting on a new call.
Explain what i was recommended etc. Why would he have recommended that said the technician.
I point out I’ve spent £105 on said part.
Ermmmm, hold on he said.
It’s a flow control bullet on the other end that needs replacing.
(To my credit, I was very calm though a voice stress analysis may have had other opinions)
Go to the old part take out “the bullet” and put it in the other end.
Take off pump feeds, electric yet again.
Circlip, shake pump to get other end bullet out and put in other one.
Reassemble pump.
Voila!!
Getting a 50 percent refund as the bullet kit is £55.
.
.
Tomorrow’s job is dismantling the Aqua Lisa quartz processor.
Ho hum. 
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Been there as well. 
The shower pump is in the loft conversion.
The system before was a nightmare, always venting into the header tank.
When it was ripped out for the loft we found out why.
Oh said whichever poxed son of a imbecile put it ; I can’t be bothered drilling a 22mm hole so I’ll put a 10mm? pipe through an existing notch.
Blowback issues, oh yes.
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Haven’t we all. I had to replace my Honeywell 3-way valve twice in 25 years.
6 years ago, when the 3rd 3-way valve was about 6 years old, we had a new boiler and hot water tank installed and, as part of that, the CH and hot water system was changed from a Y-plan system (with the 3-way valve) to an S-plan system (with two on-off valves). Hopefully, these will last a bit longer.
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I’ve replaced two Drayton 3-way valves in the last few years. Now back to S-plan. Still prefer Honeywell. With unvented hot water, I’ve no need for shower pumps.
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Honeywell V4073A1039/U 22mm Mid Position Valve
Thanks for tip re nut thread and paste.
I’ll check out Draytron, and give the Banico a miss.
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S-plan is better, but I always recommend a 1 hour DHW heat up prior to CHW. All depends on the boiler kw.
Likewise. With mains water pressure here, measured at time of cylinder installation, at 6.5 bar regulated down to 3 bar for the unvented hot water cylinder, no shower pump is necessary.
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Ah yes.
Static water pressure does confuse some plumbers. Static pressure is irrelevant if the dynamic pressure is crap.
It’s recommended to only use 1 tap to check dynamic pressure. Sod that. I run a minimum of three. Kitchen, bath and hand wash basin.
If a static of around 4 bar and a dynamic less than 1.5 to 2 I always recommend an accumulator instead of a pump. Basically a large expansion vessel but with a larger connection. If space allows of course. I fitted 7 in a row at a hotel once. Installed correctly they work flawlessly with very little maintenance.
Unvented hot water always.
Sealed heating system always.
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True.
Fortunately, our dynamic water pressure appears to be adequate as well. We have two showers - both can be run at the same time with no apparent degradation in pressure compared to one shower running.
I’m sure we could get a dynamic pressure drop by turning on all of the other taps in the house - but that is not exactly a commonplace scenario 
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We’ve got an accumulator as our water pressure is provided by an asthmatic 
blowing down the mains.
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Is your monsoon charging it?
Or just static pressure or another pump.