Isn’t that a frequency way way above whats audible? 1-10 kHz would be more suited
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I’m struggling a bit with these traces. The lower one appears to have 50% more peaks than the upper one, which would seem to imply different frequencies, and the variability of times between peaks is also puzzling.
Assuming the test conditions were the same it looks broken rather than not as good.
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No no, this is digital representation of the data stream (or clock if there is no data) because SPDIF contain clock encoded inside.
Good point, explaining. The music is not playing in case of Auralic and playing i case of Pi. I will make the new screenshot when get back from business trip. I will also add some jitter measurements.
At the moment I cant but I will ask my fiend to bring the Pi again. I will do the measurements having the opportunity. I am also curious.
Interesting. . .
I don’t understand just why we are comparing a unit that is almost 10 times more expensive. I get your point and all, but still. . . If you want a better comparison I would at least use the Digi 1 Signature and a good power supply.
There are orders of magnitude with this stuff. Even the R-Pi hats, HiFiBerry- $27.00, Allo Digi1 $99.00, Allo Digi 1 Sig. $240.00 and so on. I cannot afford a $1,300.00 transport, but my $250.00 R-Pi with the Digi 1 set up sounds really great on my system.
System: First Watt B1 Pre, Aleph J Power, Klipsch Cornwall III Speakers
It would be cool to see the difference between the Digi 1 and the signature if you were so inclined
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Perhapd simply because he had the kit available to test and it’s of interest to see a technical comparison between products. For example it would have been even more interesting if the Allo had trounced the Auralic.
But if one trace is with music playing and the other isn’t then it’s not really a comparison.
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Is anybody know which of the following pins give the power to Allo Digione board ?
I’m planning to split the power supply for the Rpi for DigiOne addon. I think may the 3 and 5 pins deliver the necessary power but i not sure.
I have a RPi4 in a FLIRC case running RopieeXL as a roon endpoint.
For power I started with the standard RPi4 power supply, then moved l to the Allo SMPS - which provided an uplift in sound quality.
Today I installed an Allo Battery Pack with 4 x LIFPO 18650 batteries (with correct orientation as per stickers / indication).
Attached it to the RPi4 and SMOKE FROM THE RPi4 USB-C power socket and BURNING SMELL - I pulled the connection within 10 seconds. it now won’t boot up - just shows the fixed green and red LED’s.
Needless to say I am not impressed with this. Looks like the RPi4 is a write-off.
PS. The 18650 batteries are the same spec (3.7v, 2,600 mAH) as those sold on one of the audio sites that resells Allo gear.
Hopefully Allo will help you with that. John Darko has a video with him smoking the battery pack on the Allo as well. It is unfortunate that it is confusing / conflicting information on those battery packs. I believe the molded-in diagram is different than the sticker? Either way, Allo should do something.
Isn’t the RPi voltage 5V? If that’s the case and you put 8V (8.4, did you check?) in, it’s not going to like it. The HAT takes a higher voltage. Allo PS’s are 5V I think.
I’ve heard both, and the hassles of the dual power was just not worth the small, imho, sonic upgrade from the original DigiOne.
Disagree. I own and still use both the original and Signature, along with Allo’s Shanti dual power supply -which replaced batteries for the “clean” HAT side because it sounds just as good without the recharging hassle.
To my ears, through Meridian SE speakers, Signature and Shanti are well worth the cost. I can easily hear the differences using my old speakers from 2003 as well.
Yes, T-elmi, you fried a 5v device with more than 7 volts. Those batteries would have been fine for the Signature HAT (that’s why Allo dealers sell them), but not for an RPi.
I agree. I think that the digione signature card is better and the shanti power supply improves SQ significantly.