It’s difficult to help out here. The documentation on the Katana is… well, not particaluary verbose on it’s capabilities. I can’t find any information if it is capable fo doing DSD128.
Wrt to the artwork: that depends on Roon (and Allo for that matter).
Thanks it doesn’t seem clearly defined does it.
Read an Allo employee saying it only supports 24/192 with Isolator.
Isolator v1.2 seems to do 32/192 for me in Roon. My Marantz 7012 HTR supports 32bit.
On iPad sized screen with app you see input and output speaker layout, in whatever speaker configuration you have selected. Ie 7.1. Plus bit/sample rate very handy.
At least I know it isn’t something I am doing wrong.
So a good troubleshooting step if you get no sound or an unexpected sound turn down bit and/or sample rate. Alternatively to see what device supports you could turn up bit/ sample rate, Usually you just get silence or unusual sounds if what you selected isn’t supported…just in case make sure to turn down master volume to very low level before trying.
The reason I purchased Katana is my HTR is limited to 32/192. Could only get DOP from disks working.
Had isolator but limits bit/sample rate. It does allow you to use a budget PS to run it and Pi, while improving sound quality. So a good trade off in beginning or as budget allows. Definately worth getting a upgraded PS for DAC and MC as budget, your equipment and ur ears allow.
I decided to improve power supplys minimizing need for isolator. Will add isolator v1.2 back in a month or so. Using iPower to power Pi. Then a chinese LPS for Micro Controller and DAC. It contains independent PS.
Great product @Allo, great for the ability to change and tweak the platform.
Personally I like to see 32/384, DSD64 and DSD128 but thats the nerd in me.
I have two 5v clean outputs on above LPS dedicated to Katana. One connected to DAC, one connected to Micro Controller. Total overkill but that was the point for me more power than devices need.
Then use an iPower to power Pi.
Have both the Sound Quality and Pure THD OPamp boards still have record players so prefer Sound Quality myself. A friend who is digital only since 90’s prefers Pure THD. My speakers are also a tad bright. I just tried isolator again for couple of weeks went back to THD. Don’t think you need isolator once you have decent power sources. Sound opened right up after taking isolator back off. Have a found a few DSD128 albums very nice. Then after a few days switched to Sound Quality OPamp board. At first didn’t sound good, almost a tearing quality to sound after 30-40 hours it started sounding very good. Have passed 200 hours now think the Katana is a nice stop for a year or two.
POPPING with DSD not if you only listen to DSD, HA.
When Katana changed format, so DSD to PCM for instance. When going from DSD 64 to 128 it didn’t happen nor did it from PCM to PCM that being said it seems to have stopped.
I just went from DSD 128, to DSD64 to 24/192, to DSD 64 to Lossless Wav 16/44, no problem.
Had read pop affected ESS SABRE 9038 based devices. Have had several devices based on ESS Sabre DACS like the sound. Pinkfishmedia.net forums says different filters can affect popping sound. I have Linear Phase Slow Roll-off filter selected. Will experiment with some other filters see if it comes back
I’m powering the top board in the stack with a very high quality +/- 15v supply as per Allo’s instructions. It makes the biggest SQ improvement of any power supply mod suggested by ALLO.
The interesting thing about Katana is there are so many choices. Different powering methods as well as two different hats in the isolator and a choice of opamp boards.
I decided against the -+15 route after someone posted it didn’t make as much of a difference as powering the DAC and Micro Controller cleanly.
The beauty of it is we are both right if we enjoy the sound we have achieved. I know some folks with very expensive systems. They sound better than mine, but I am very happy with the sound of mine for what I have paid for it.
So shortly after this post I watched Hans Beekhuysen review and went back to powering just the MC and Isolator using my LPS. Reattached the THD opamp while at it removed sides of case as Pi was complaining of being warm. Which brought temp back to OK. Then loaded Ropieee setup weekly reboot and hadn’t touched it since early May. August 25 turned everything on, heard high pitched squealing both out of device and speakers. Some troubleshooting, investigating and suffering a capacitor with bubbling foam coming out. The whole thing was already replaced once in the beginning and now again. Voltage of LPS is 5.07v so not likely a problem.
Hi
I am using Katana for 6 months. Recently I bought some LPSU and finished assembling the cabinet.
It is a wooden cabinet painting in black. There is the Kanata and the 4 Ultrabibis and 1 l-adapter. There is an Allo Boss Dac that I use for the Dining Room Zone.
The fan to the left of the katana (A noctua super silent fan) is necessary since I live in a city where the temperature varies in spring/sumer (Oct-April) from 28c to 30c (Centigrade !!).
The L adapter goes to the Rpi, and the 3 ultrabibs to the Dac, Mc and Opamp.
Unfortunately this setup last for one month as Roon stopped to see the Katana, so I reverted to dual power mode, and now the L adapter goes to Rpi and an Audiophonics linear psu powering the Mc in dual mode power. Now Roon sees it.
Actually I liked this setup better, as the sound has more bass and it’s less bright.
I had also a problem with Opamp and Mc.
Allo prompted replaced both boards.
I suspect the problems were caused by heat. That’s why I installed the Fan.
Antônio
Allo also replaced my boards, I do have a USB Honeywell fan I power off a Power bar. RPI now reports “Cool runnings”
Temp is always a problem to be aware of.
Nice rig, mine is 4’ from turntable and 3’ from power amp with wooden shelving providing some protection.
I am near end of warranty so going to get a tech to buy me a very good quality cap and replace whats there. Wife is using at her system and is really enjoying the sound.