Hmmm, that might explain things. It’s showing soundcard as none (even though the GUI showed usb-dac), but now I can’t select usb-dac when I ssh, it attempts to set it and just drops back to the menu with the soundcard still as none. I wonder if the board has died 
It looks like a quick error message displays but it’s too brief to read. I wonder if there’s a log file someplace.
I’ve already emailed them. Thanks.
After the last DietPi update, I couldn’t get USBridge to work with the Allo GUI. When I reflashed the eMMC card with the non-GUI DietPi image, USBridge has been working fine.
Hi all,
I am using my USBridge with an Asus USB-AC56 Dual-band Wireless AC1200 USB3.0 WiFi Adapter.
Does anyone know if it is possible to force the USBridge to connect to the 5GHz frequency instead of 2.4?
Is there a way in DietPi to achieve this?
Regards
Hey Mark @oneofmany , you and I might be the only ones using this Asus with USBridge 
So I’ll try to help
Does your router broadcast a 5GHz network with a different name to the 2.4GHz network? Or just a single SSID?
Like I have two different WiFi networks: One called Sean2.4G and one called Sean5G and I manually choose which one I connect to, with each device in the house. Actually now I only have a 5G WiFi network (I’ve now manually disabled the 2.4G radio of the router) but that’s what I used to do, so you get the gist.
If you have two different names also, you should be able to see the 5GHz one in DietPi’s WiFi settings page and just select the 5GHz network and enter it’s password.
Your router shouldn’t force 5GHz connected devices onto the 2.4GHz network, unless you only have a single SSID that covers both?
Yep only way I have found any device to make sure it uses 5Ghz is to have two separate ssids for each bandwidth and choose it. Even though my access points has band steering it never worked as some devices just latch on to what they think is the strongest signal not necessarily the best or what you want it to be on.
Thanks Sean and Simon,
I have smart connect enabled on my RT AC88U, so there is only one SSID, I think my best option would probably be to turn off smart connect then disable the 2.4 GHz frequency. I think that is easy to enough to do.
My only concern is that I have a couple of older wireless devices that only ever connect to the 2.4 frequency.
All good Mark.
You can just have two SSID’s then, one with 2.4G in the name and the other with 5G in the name.
And for the older devices, just connect to the 2.4G. And all other devices connect to the 5G. That’s what I did for a long while and it worked great - until all my devices were 5G compatible, so I then disabled the 2.4G radio on the router.
Hits head with hand. Jeez, I really do have baby brain, the sleep deprivation is in full effect.
I have set several wireless networks up like this. 
What a bell end!
Thanks mate.
Haha this is just about the only excuse that’s acceptable
Just kidding of course. It’s all good.
Just!!!
Just to update, Allo support suggested the one thing I didn’t do, restart my pre-amp, which indeed fixed the issue!! Sometimes you can’t see the wood for the trees!
I have a iFi DAC connected to the Allo USBridge and I understand that Roon is doing the 1st unfold ro 88.2KHz, but after Allo, there’s nothing showing what it does on the path.
If I connect the same DAC to my Mac, I can see the unfolding back to 352.8kHz.
The questions is if I am just not seeing it, but the unfolding still happening?
What does the DAC itself show?
The DAC only shows the led in magenta, which is MQA.
Then that indicates the DAC is seeing MQA and doing what it should.
@David_Snyder;
Thanks for sharing your experience with the iFi audio dc purifier. I am also considering an upgrade from the provided 5v power supply but wonder why you did not to choose the ifi power 5v instead? It is cheaper and I read that the ifi audio dc purifier can be used when there is no option for ifi power supply.
I think it was because I read that the Allo USBridge requires 3 amps, and the iFi iPower 5V is only rated for 2.5.
The iPower 5V might work anyway, but I didn’t want to risk overloading it.
FWIW, I’ve been using the iFi 5v on mine (with an @allo.com wart powering the Sparky) for a good while, really doesn’t seem to be an issue at all. 15.6 W seems WAY overkill for just the USB board, so, @Tom_den_Heijer, if you’re buying an extra iFi, just plug it into the USB board as suggested by allo, power the Sparky with the old, noisy supply, and you should be fine.
