Thank you for your response, Bill. I’m not entirely sure in what context you’re suggesting I use a data cable, though. I’m willing to use one in this situation for a test. However, I’m not about to get into a discussion about why digital is radically different, yet in very important ways, the same as analog (they’re still wave signs that degrade). Except data is easier to correct, having check sums, etc., where music and video wave signs do not. Other than that, I strongly prefer to leave this discussion for another board where it’s more appropriate for volatile discussions, because that seems to be where this topic always leads. That said, my using a cable specifically designed for music is not the problem I’m having here. If there is a problem with my USB cable, it’s either a poor brand decision or an assembly mistake. As complicated as these cables are, they only need to be USB 2.0, which is measured in voltage and shielding (or loss, I should say). The cable I have is far beyond the capacity of USB 2.0, as are all authentic digital audio cables. Otherwise, you would obviously be seeing logos on all of them, especially when they can cost up to $2K—or even more. However, since there could be a problem with mine, using a data cable to test this, makes sense. Starting with my 3.5mm port is step one, though. But these are only tests as far as I’m concerned. And I’m well within my return period. So I’m safe to make another choice, should it come to that. Thanks again, though. I’m more curious about those out there using reputable, digital, audio-specific cables, though.
So are you still having the problem? Have you tried a different cable? Or any of the other suggestions? What were the results?
Sorry to be confusing, Daniel. I just meant that in response to your question about “which brand/version of cords you aren’t having any problems with”. A simple AmazonBasics data cable is what I use, and have no problems. Which I find unsurprising. After all, it’s data that’s flowing across the cable, not ‘music’.
I haven’t had a chance today, yet. But I’m a night owl, so I’ll be up for a few hours and now have the time to play around now. I’ll post any news as soon as I find something out. Getting it to happen again will be a trick. I’ve had it for three weeks and it’s only happened four times. So it could take a while. But when it does happen, I’m afraid of ruining my headphones and the only headphones I have with 3.5mm jacks are my pricier HiFiMan’s. Sound will be low. And time will tell all.
So did you get a standard cable to test? What rate are you up sampling to? Have you tried it without up sampling?
SOLVED!!!
I followed the obvious recommendations regarding the cables. No problems with using the 3.5mm jack on my Mac. Then I happened to have found a Belkin USB-C to USB-B cable in an obscure place. The problem appeared almost immediately. Then I thought my DAC/amp was defective and freaked out! But the problem seemed to appear on the same albums, all high-res. So I pursued my other theory of it being an upsampling problem. Moon had detected that my DAC was 768kHz. However, it is really 384kHz. So I looked at the albums more closely and they were all from Qobuz and very high-res to begin with—much higher than Tidal’s typical, very high-res.
So I switched my upsampling on both Moon and Audirvana to max at 384kHz and the problem is gone! Upsampling was the problem and I should have followed that instinct much earlier instead of taking all of your time. Thank you all for your input on this.
I must say, though… the difference between the Belkin cable and Silver Dragon was very significant. The Belkin seemed murky, but had more bass (yet not punchy at all). The Silver Dragon was much cleaner and brighter. It had less bass, but the bass it had was punchy and clean. But even more noticeable was the stage. The Silver Dragon’s stage was much, much bigger and more definitive than the Belkin’s. In my humble opinion, it all comes down to your weakest link in your system (pardon the pun). Also, I did not notice nearly as much difference using my AKG Q701’s as I did with either of my planar HiFiMan’s. I have about 25% of my system’s budget tied up in cables (not including the Sundara’s or Q701’s). My rule of thumb is one-third. So I’m close to being on target and I’m happy with the decisions I’ve made regarding my entire system. Please note I have almost 20 years of listening to high-end equipment. It’s my biggest addiction. My next move will be getting a dedicated Mac mini with a modified, linear power supply for my music (killing the warrantee) after I get my new Mac Pro set up for my work—I do video editing for a few ad agencies in Minneapolis and LA. But with the mod Mac mini, I won’t need to worry about having background apps and a lousy power supply effecting the sound quality. This is all additional information from personal experience. I’m throwing it in for those who have an interest. But I do not intend to argue anyone’s point of view.
Thanks again!
Daniel
Belkin is pretty decent brand.
But for certified cables in general, there are the official badges I posted above that are intended for one to be able to recognize a cable that has been tested to be compliant. Badge is usually either in packaging , or attached to the cable itself, or both.
So, the problem was with your settings. Good that you solved it. Probably explains why no one else was reporting it.
I’m glad you figured it out. Your problem was definitely rate synchronization and it was either the cable or the upsampling. Actually there’s something wrong with the implementation of your DAC because it shouldn’t report to the computer that it’s capable of a higher sample rate than it can decode. This is part of the USB Audio Class spec.
If that’s the case then there’s something wrong with your gear.
Engineering is not a point of view.
Have you considered spending that money on an exceptional DAC like the RME Adi-2 which is completely immune to any interference from the source computer?
Actually, Google analytics does show that people have searched the problem fairly regularly. Not many people actually start new cases/threads on these forums. And if you read all the misinformation in this thread alone, you can understand why. This is the last one I’ll start. I certainly don’t need people inferring I bought a piece of crap that won a lot of international awards instead of something else which was barely reviewed. I actually considered that DAC/amp until I tested them side by side. Let’s just say I now know why reputable audiophile journalists detest forums. But thank you for your kind comment… one of the few on here.
Be grateful people tried to help instead of throwing it back in their faces. Believe what you want re your USB cable and its magical properties, having bought it you’ll hear whatever you want to hear.
I hate to say this, Jussi, but most of those labels are marketing. Yes, they serve some purpose. I agree. But most of the companies who certify their cables do it to hike up the cost of their products. Apple even has their own certification to make money (I’ve learned the hard way to trust them, though). I worked in Silicon Valley marketing for 15 years. My clients were all names you’d know, including the one I just mentioned. Plus grading cables mostly comes down to voltage and interference. Most of the crap cables out there would pass, but certification costs money and they are competing for low pricing. Quite a few of those cables wouldn’t, too. For computing, I agree with you 100%. But if you were to test a real good quality digital audiophile cable, it would rate a USB 3.3, 3.4, or even higher. However, audiophile cables are usually directionally dominant for a better signal. Some even split the power and signal lines on two separate USB cables and then rejoin them at the end. Some actually use two individual USB-A connections at the source in order to keep clocking on track. Some don’t run power at all to avoid interference. Power through these cables is a real problem with interference. I’ll admit, my cable doesn’t have power and one other unnecessary line is absent. And that’s why Bob Menlo’s theory probably doesn’t work in my situation. Roon and Audirvana probably default to 784kHz when they get no response back from the DAC. And in so many words, he called my DAC/hp amp a piece of crap! But the reasons all these differences exist is to improve the square wave. I can give you a list that goes on and on why those labels are meaningless when it comes to audio vs. computational purposes. If you want a good video to watch, look up “Why Audiophile Cables Might Sound Better” by Hans Beekhuyzen on YouTube. Absolutely brilliant man. He can give you very good reasons why cables are different without being offensive to anyone. On top of that, he refuses to review any audio cables. You’ll have to watch the video to find out why. But one thing is for sure. And you probably know this. You cannot pump 0s and 1s though a wire. Even digital signals are analogue as they go through a wire. They just happen to be square waves instead of waves with amplitude, etc. And they both degrade just as easily. Computers are designed to fix the problems using code. However, audio doesn’t have that code. You can blame that on the developers of music CDs who never saw this coming. But as we know too, not all CD players are equal. Much of it has to do with the same qualities found in Audiophile cables, but on a PCB and chip level. But if it were real zeros and ones, or the square waves remained intact, why wouldn’t we just use bluetooth for everything? They’re analogue square waves, too. But I’m ending my part in this thread at this point. You can respond. But I won’t respond and may not see it. I absolutely hated this experience and I ended up solving the problem on my own anyway. Roon will hear directly from me in the future.
Ok boomer.
Thank you to those who showed me respect and did not attempt to slide this off topic to sound smart, or make arguments on the superiority in their choice of products. (When pushed, I’m the type who tends to push back—something I don’t enjoy doing.) And to those of you who showed an honest interest in how this would turn out, I appreciate your support. I have to say, these support forums are not for me. This was my first and last. I wish everyone well, though. And most of all… listen to the music!
Please let him be a man of his word. 
Okay… How could I JUST run across this and not inject a little humor.
Didn’t even take 5 minutes 
In practice other than the shield which would normally be tied to ground USB has 4 wires…+5V and Ground, Data+ and Data- of which you need at least both the data lines and I would put money on the Ground as a reference…so what other unnecessary line might you think they should omit with the +5V being Power?
Since this thread has been solved to satisfaction. I am going to close it.