If you are having trouble with installing Windows on a PC you tried to install ROCK on, it’s because ROCK formatted that drive during its attempt at installation.
As far as Windows goes, when you go to reinstall it, delete whatever partition it’s complaining about and reformat.
You’re right. An Asrock BeeBox is different.
No need to lash out in frustration.
Sorry if i sounded snarky. I’ve gotten frustrated today. When you say to delete whatever partition windows is complaining about and to reformat it, right now I can only access bios on the Beelink and i don’t know of any way to reformat the ssd from bios.
Ok, no problem.
You trying to reinstall Windows, right?
The Windows installer should give you the option to delete the offending partition and format a new one.
Yes, there was an option to reformat, but it was greyed out and clicking on it didn’t do anything.
Hmm, it’s been awhile since I installed Windows and as I remember the process can finicky with a previous OS installed.
I can’t look over your shoulder, but there is a way to delete and reformat, although it might not be clear.
OTOH, did you have WIN10 on the pc before or an older version? Dunno.
The device came with windows 11. I took a tour and didn’t like it, so I replaced it with windows 10. Should have just stopped there. And if I had known that I couldn’t install ROCK, I would have. One of the moderators said that he once tried ROCK on a Beelink pc also, and gave up.
Yeah, @Rugby is a pure Windows guy. I don’t think he uses ROCK.
I know one can delete/reformat during a WIN10 install, because I’ve had to do it. It just requires turning oneself inside out. 
Someone will jump in with a better answer.
Sorry for the prior confusion. Roon can be a real hair puller.
Good luck.
I’m thinking of just getting a raspberry pi to use an endpoint to feed my usb dac and to have roon core on my main gaming pc. It has good processing power for the core, and the raspberry should feed native dsd to my dac via usb. I hoped I could get away with just using what i already had lying around, but the Beelink proved me wrong. Hopefully I can get a raspberry that will work without having to wait too long!
Thanks! First, I need to figure out just what parts I need to make this work.
Right now I know zero about PIs (except that i like to eat them!)
Anybody have suggestions as to what I should be looking for?
I live in Canada, and I did see someone selling a Sonore Ultru Rendu and Swagman Linear power supply for a decent price. I’ve heard that they make good roon endpoints. But its a LOT more than what a raspberry pi would be, and I’m not sure if the higher cost really results in better sound quality.
You are right to be skeptical, IMO. A Pi 4 does all that is necessary. You’re just pulling bits off the Ethernet and writing them to the USB port. No linear power supply necessary, as it’s all digital. I use a CanaKit (board, power supply, case, SD card for the operating system). You put the board in the case, download RoPieee and flash the SD card with it, put it in the assembled Pi, turn that on by plugging it in, RoPieee boots up and downloads and installs Roon Bridge automagically, and you’re good to go.
“automagiclly” . . . what a great word!
Gonna steal that!
I actually run multiple cores. One of which is a ROCK NUC built when when rock was released. So been running rock for years. Just use it as a backup core.
Welcome to the club of beginners
I had also initially tried to dive into the Linux world from the Windows world only with a little trial and error. If you come from Windows, it is not so easy with new terminal commands. The advisors often come from the Debian/Ubuntu/Mint world and have been around since the 90s.
Good basics can be learned e.g. Linux – Das umfassende Handbuch | kofler.info (German).
Surely there are standard works for basics in all languages.
Just something to get you started:
Before the hard disk is read, UEFI/BIOS is read. The older BIOS Legacy mode is easier to handle. Rock can’t handle the new UEFI mode. That’s the only reason it requires manual intervention and newer machines don’t allow BIOS. There is simply no way to switch to legacy anymore. (Safety over simplicity)
When BIOS or UEFI has done its job, the hard disk comes into play. Linux and Windows format differently. A good installation routine from the USB stick does all the work invisibly. I had good experience with this and did not need a terminal. https://manjaro.org/
If you start with Linux, you should stay closer to the window structure of Windows. I first chose Plasma in the download. Manjaro Downloads
The full version offers practically everything that one was used to from Windows and Office. An easy start also the Roon server can be selected and installed simply by clicking without installation knowledge.
Since the Beelink has no other tasks, a new attempt with Manjaro Plasma full version? I will then gladly help over further cliffs, if any come.
In the 90s, it was a culture war between proprietary and open source software. Today, both sides are more relaxed about it. Versatility and narrow-mindedness don’t go well together. If you put aside your Wine complex, your NVIDIA reservations, you get to the finish line much more relaxed today and can continue with Foobar2000 even under Manjaro without any installation knowledge.
However, there are indeed machines that are easier or more difficult to get up and running.
This idea of using the Beelink mini pc started because I just wanted to see if i could get into Roon with just what I already had lying around. Turns out the Beelink won’t work.
One thig that did come about in just the couple of days of reading the responses is that I now have a much better idea of just what Roon is all about.
I have decided to put Roon Core on my gaming pc for any needed processing power and digital upsampling, etc. I won’t be using the pc for anything else while sitting in front of my audio system, so I don’t think i’ll have any unwanted problems.
I am purchasing a Raspberry Pi kit to use as an endpoint with ropiee. This is a link to what I think will work:
What do you guys think? Is this all the parts I will need?
I live in Canada where everything seems to cost a bit more than the US, so take that into consideration if you think the price is high.
I have heard that the Pi4 can overheat more than the Pi3 because of a more powerful cpu.
Has anyone noticed this?
I found a webpage where the author shows how to underclock the Pi4 to prevent any chance of overheating:
Anyone have thoughts on this?
I think I’m on the right track now.
The overheating was on early model’s and I think they released a new revision at least 2 or 3 year’s ago.
They also pushed out an updated firmware that fixed this problem. I have several original Pi’s and some newer ones and they all work perfectly well.
Personally, rather than apply Archimago’s underclocking fix, I went for an aluminium fanless case.
Ropieee is running at 36.0℃ / 96.8℉
And as @Michael_Harris says - I think the overheating problem is history.
Great! I had read that, also, but its good to have it confirmed by actual users.
I have 4 or 5 devices in Flirc case’s and I think they are very good. Running 24/7 for three years with no issues.
It’s a fun little project and you will learn plenty and have something useful at the end.
I think i will add an aluminum case to my Pi order.
Just wondering: do people leave the Pi running 24/7? Or turn it on just before listening? The wall brick that came with my mini pc can actually get quite warm to the touch after an hour or so. How is it for the Pi?