I had a little time over the weekend and did some more reading on room curves, back to the original research, in particular from Toole’s book and the consensus is a far simpler curve than you are using.
I settled for
20 2
1000 0
20000 -8
My feeling always that the fewest tweaks possible leads to the least chance of screwing it up.
Mine is not so far:
30 3
200 0
2000 0
20000 -6
This great guide gave me the inspiration to get started with room measurements, thanks for all the input in the 900 odd posts, took me a fair while to get through it all and as a complete beginner quite a lot of it went over my head but i am learning fast and am keen to improve.
I have set my room out as best i can regarding speaker positioning and done a bit towards room conditioning with rugs / curtains etc but suspect i could do a bit more.
After reading all this information i decided that first of all getting some reference measurements of what my room was doing would be a good idea and then try and address the results first with tuning the room etc before getting involved with filters, firstly to have the minimum amount of filter work going on as possible as secondly to get benefit whilst playing vinyl.
This is all very new to me so please excuse my inexperience or lack of knowledge if i get things wrong, i got thick skin so wont be offended if you take the mickey 
.
Here are a couple of screenshots from my results and a couple of photos from the room, any advice would be really appreciated.
My first impressions of the results, which were taken with mic stationary on a mic stand behind sofa with boom over sofa so mic at ear level facing speaker being measured are
2)quite a wide null going on around the 200 x 400 hz mark, could the two armchairs be causing this?
3)everything over 400hz doesnt actually look too bad, i am a bit under the 75db reference line but maybe i should have calibrated a touch higher?
anyway it would be great to hear opinions from more experienced members…
Heres a few of the living room
Frequency response in the room looks ok (easily corrected), but when measuring for room you should use sweeps to get timing information and then look at the waterfall graph (or similar) to determine reverberation time.
Guide like this one can fix frequency response, but no DRC can fix to long (or to short) reverberation times.
For example, here is my waterfall graph in a very heavily treated room (measured with DRC in use):
What you should look at is the numbers to the upper right, which is milliseconds. Those should be fairly low when the sound reaches the background noise level (preferably 200-300ms), but don’t be surprised if you find numbers up towards a second for lower frequency, which will make a “punchy bass” impossible. Thunder and explosions will work good though 
You are doing it the right way though, fix room acoustics as much as possible, then use digital room correction for fine tuning.
Ok thanks for that although not quite understanding all of it😩, can i take that sort of measurement in REW?
my first time ever using it or doing anything like this was just now when the mic arrived in the post😀.
I would also like to try and get the room as good as possible by adding room treatment or moving speakers a bit etc etc as i listen to alot of vinyl which goes straight into my amp so improvements in the room would benefit here as well.
Do you think looking at my measurements and room layout that thick accoustic dampening behind / on wall side of speakers would help? Thinking in regards to the big 60hz null and the null in the low mids? Thinking maybe some SBIR might be going on?
You can do sweep measurements from REW, just put mic at listening position and record a sweep from REW (google can probably help as well). Then you will get timing information and can determine reverberation in your room (you can also determine excessive phase, which shows parts that should not be corrected but leave that for now).
The dip at just below 70 should not be touched, and is not audible anyway in most cases. Then use “var smoothing” as filter in EQ window (see pic) to be able to see better what needs to be corrected:
Great thanks alot for that, i will give it all a go sometime over next couple of days and report back with my findings if i can manage it all👍
got round to trying my hand at a sweep measurement today, just did the left speaker on its own to start with as wasn’t sure if I should do them both together or one at a time. anyway to my inexperienced knowledge I was quite impressed with what the waterfall chart showed me.
am I correct in my understanding that I seem to have a reasonably straight decay line mostly between 240 and 300 ms with a slightly longer decay at the bottom end below about 100hz, would I therefore be correct in thinking that based on this and as long as the other side looks about the same I shouldn’t be too concerned regarding reverberation.
Many thanks sean
I would still like to room treat the 200 -400 null and the bass nulls below 100 hz though if possible, could SBIR be a cause of this perhaps?,
Many many thanks
Sean
Looks fine down to around 60Hz, so maybe some corner chunks to tame it a little (you wont get rid of it totally though). And I mentioned before, use “var smoothing”, its so hard to see anything unfiltered. You won’t be able to get rid of the very spiky dips between 200 and 400, but then you won’t hear them anyway (and they wont show on “var smoothing”). But the overall level is a little low in that area so some correction is needed.
Also, add a house curve (Preferences -> House curve), I suggest copy-paste this into a text-file and use as a start, then modify if you like (format is Hz - dB):
20 6
50 5
100 2
550 0
5000 -1
10000 -2
17000 -3
18000 -5
19000 -10
20000 -20
Ok great, thankyou very much for your time and help. Much appreciated👍
There we go:grinning:, going to repeat this measurement for on the right hand side tomorrow and maybe again for both at same time, will experiment a bit with some traps as far as practicle in a living room then sort some filters out:+1:
Now we see what needs to be done! Just add a house curve and do the magic, but leave the dips at 40, 70 and 300 (or adjust manually if REW wants to correct them).
A tip: correct from 20 to 1500Hz, leave the rest alone (better to not touch something thats very close to correct).
Nice guide!
Man am I happy my Anthem D2V pre amp does all this for me through ARC.
Job for tomorrow when the mrs is on late shift:grinning:
I sort of agree however i am having a very interesting time learning alot about how accoustics work and getting to learn more about my room,
i am also trying to improve my rooms response Using passive room treatments / positioning as much as possible as i listen to alot of vinyl straight into my hifi amp so digital filters would not be of benefit for that.
In parallel to experimenting with the room conditioning i can try to produce some filters and curves to apply to my digital setup.
My home theatre setup is done by audessy though:joy:
My HT room (3 channel) is my 2 channel room as well. What is nice about the Anthem ARC is that it can take the room correction settings and applies it to what they call Analog DSP for two channel audio. Plus it allows use of the sub if you want it 2.1.
I’m really happy I have no need for 4k/Atmos etc setup. These d2V premaps once sold for $7k, can get them rather reasonably priced now. Two channel analog audio and room correction is phenomenal.
Pardon my ignorance please, Magnus:
If I were to get Thierry to supply me with some room correction files, could I then try different house curves or does the house curve need to be established before Thierry works his magic?
Thanks in advance!
Thierry applies a house curve himself before he does the correction, or uses one you supply. You could for example use this guide and experiment until you are happy with the sound, then let Thierry do his magic with the house curve you like. That way, you also have a baseline to compare against.
Note that Thierry needs sweep measurements, while RTA is used in this guide.
