Connected with Ethernet cable to your router, I’d assume?
So, if the router has got wireless capabilities, you should have your wired and wireless devices in the same subnet after activating WiFi and just need to select them in Roon’s audio setup tab.
If it’s just an unmanaged switch, you’re all fine.
In the end it’s your router managing the network, wired and wireless connections would usually be within the same subnet and your ROCK seeing all end points just fine.
Looping back to my initial post, this is why I thought maybe the NUC needed a WiFi card. When my desktop computer with a WiFi card was the Roon core, Roon saw the WiiM and the iPad (which has Roon installed)–both Roon Ready wireless devices.
When I switched to the Intel without a WiFi card, it does not see those devices.
The subnet would be the first three sets of numbers of the IP address. As an example “192.168.10.XXX”.
The last the number (the XXX above) is assigned to a specific device on the subnet in question.
So, if they are both on the same “192.168.10” portion of the IP address, then they are on the same subnet.
Also, when you say “the Wiim app provides the IP address of the wiim” does that mean it displays it? or do you set it manually? It “should” be getting an IP from the router automatically and then the Wiim app should just show you what has been assigned to the Wiim from the DHCP server in router.
You could go into the router and look for a “client table” to see what IPs have been assigned if you need to. But it looks like you already know the IPs for both the Wiim and the NUC, correct?
Can you post the two IPs? They are internal to your network so are not a risk if you post them. If you need us to confirm they are the same subnet.
In the Wiim app is there a way to “refresh” or “reconnect” to the network? or select a network to connect to? It “might” still have the IP from the PC card you were using?? Or your router might have two networks setup? Might need to look in the router for a client list and a network list to see what it is doing?
OK, the information you gave me was enough to figure it out!
Short version: We had lousy Internet throughout the house so my wife purchased a mesh system and installed it wrong. (Not blaming her because I probably would have done the same thing.) So when you asked if there were two networks, yes.
We had to get the aftermarket TP Link mesh onto the right subnet. We changed the TP Link to access point mode and boom! Everything moved to the correct subnet. Everything now works.
More information leading to (hopefully) one last question: I was dealing with part one of this project, adding network attached storage, this weekend, and I called AT&T because the Buffalo NAS tech support guy was also saying there were two different networks.
The person at AT&T disabled the Wi-Fi interface on their router and told me that would solve the two networks problem. Obviously, it didn’t.
As you know a lot about networking, maybe you can help with this last question, because I’d like this to be set up correctly for the first time ever.
Should I call AT&T and tell them to re-enable the WiFi interface on the router? Or should that remain disabled?
What mesh network device/system did you purchase? I would also not say she installed it “wrong” per-se, just not optimally for seamless network experience.
TLDR: Leave the ISP router WiFi disabled and use your mesh system.
IMHO: Any stand alone mesh system should be much better than an ISP supplied router-Wifi combo unit. They usually go with the cheapest unit they can get away with. IME the WiFi is usually weak and I have seen where it overheats/overloads the router and causes it to need to be rebooted regularly to “reset” and re-connect to devices. I would (and have) disable(d) the built-in Wifi, as I have done on all my family and friends devices, and recommend using separate access points/mesh network devices to many people.
I use Eero Pro mesh system. Other options are Orbi, Netgear, Tp-link, Linksys mesh network systems.
I also installed a Ubiquiti Unifi wired/wireless system for a work from home family member. Complete with ethernet wireless bridge to connect two houses that are 500 feet apart and to a barn/garage (yes, I am a geek and now am tech support for way too many people, LOL, good thing I find this “fun” ).
Edit: For future reference, I would “think” that you “could” disable and re-enable the Wifi on your own from the WiFi tab on the router screen you posted? Not 100% sure as I do not know what router you have and whether they have disabled some options to “protect” users…??
I would “think” that you “could” disable and re-enable the Wifi on your own from the WiFi tab on the router screen you posted? Not 100% sure as I do not know what router you have and whether they have disabled some options to “protect” users…??
I didn’t see it while poking around, but you know how user friendly those screens are. I will just take your advice and leave it alone!
