@Huang: it looks more dangerous than it actually is, there is lots of space between the clamp and the needle, impossible the hit the stylus with the clamp, unless I would be drunk (which isn’t the case normally)
@Mikael_Oliars; don’t know what your mean by “the little delrin (or alu?)” I use the clamp only with older and ligt records and records which aren’t flat anymore.
When the clamp is used, there is a small distance supposed to lift the record centre, and allow the clamp to push down on the centre labels edges. This will allow a better flattening that just the clamp itself.
This is the Brinkmann Spider, but the distance is the same:
Oh, interresting but my Bardo didn’t come wirh such a “delrin” (it’s a spacer I read in a Brinkmann manual). I’l ask my dealer about it. Thnxs!!
Sorry, yes, spacer is a better word.
Mine didn’t come with the spacer either, $50 from Brinkmann, ouch but for older thinner LPs contact with the platter is enhanced. Brinkmann engineers everything!
I have a DIY Heavy plinth Lenco idler drive with linear air bearing arm. Plinth consists of several layers of Baltic Birch finished in Cadillac Black clear coat. It’s wrapped with Maple with Walnut corner accents from a friend’s wood farm.
It sports a larger, tight tolerance stainless bearing with Phoenix Engineering tach and speed control (33 and 45 speeds changes with touch of button). Prior to adding the speed control on the Lenco, a lever moves the idler and provides four speeds. I only need a Powerglide, two speeds.
Cartridge is a low output MC AT33PTG/II. Bottlehead Eros MM phono stage with custom Walnut base. Behind it is a Parks Audio Budgie passive SUT (step up transformer). The air compressor is in basement. Air line run through wall. A bulkhead fitting on a media plate makes for a neat connection. A remote control fob (pictured) turns compressor on and off.
Lower picture is what I started with.
My hi-fi dealer got me one - a spacer I mean - he said, hope to have it next week.
That is really strange as the spacer is a part of the crystal glass platter kit, along with the threaded spindle and screw down clamp. Either it has been lost in the packaging or somebody forgot to pack them. But they are definently part of the Performance + kit.
Question, for the Bardo owners what IC are you using between the Bardo and the next stage? If you have experimented and conclusions you have made would be appreciated too.
I use a Nordost Heimdal 2 directly from the DIN of the tone arm (10.0) but i recently tried an Odin v2 Plus… I shouldn’t have done that… 
Now i have heard what difference the tone arm cable can make, and it is not easily forgotten.
My Viella V12 have a Tyr tone arm cable so i have already shown my prefs when it comes to tone arm cables, even if i also have a Cardas Golden Cross, SMEs silver cable and an Ortofon RCA-RCA for one of my TT’s. The remaining analog parts of my system is wired with Jorma Cables, the digital parts Nordost.
With analog there are infinite ways and areas to tweak: turntables, tonearms, cartridges, cables, phono preamps, etc. And that’s just barely scratching the surface. But with digital what do we get other than a few silly digital filter settings to play with on a handful of DACs. Long live analog!
I have turntable, and my record collection grows day by day. Using it most of the listening time, in a year or two I will kick roon in the butt and say bye bye.
Still got the original IC, never experimented with it. Maybe I’ll replace the tonearm (10.0) in the future when someone convinces me it would really be a great improvement.
I have no doubt that someone will but it’s only worth it if you hear any difference.
I’m surprised that no-one else has rushed to compliment you on a fabulous rebuild. Very impressive.
What was it, then? Here in Sweden no tonearm cable is included with a Brinkmann TT, and i don’t think Helmut produces any?
The reason I ask about TT interconnect is I am using a Oyaide PA2075, between my Bardo with a Lyra Delos and a PS Audio Stellar Phono Preamplifier. I am thinking of upgrading that cable.
I don’t remember where I heard/read it but somewhere I got the information that Brinkmann tonearms use Van Den Hul for tonearm internal wire.
That’s clever. I’ve got a slide out thing like that too. So I could do it as well. But even with butcher block underneath is it really level when you pull it out and stable and vibration-insulated enough?
